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Byron Bay Holiday Guide Archives :. The Art Of Surfing

by Victoria Thompson

It's unimaginable that you're not with the surfers at The Pass, riding the waves at Wategos.

Sometimes I have the peculiar sensation that you're out there amongst them and I stare at a figure who looks like you, like I remember you, only to realise that it can't be. Has time changed you? Are you still a child of Nature? Do you still ride the waves - Hawaii or Big Sur?

I need you to make me laugh - I need your lightheartedness, to hear you call - hey foxy lady! There's so much seriousness in my life. The dolphins are still at Wategos. And the whales come closer each year." "There's something about Byron - its nature and beauty - energy from the sea, the rainforest, the dolphins - even the individuals who come with love and peace in their hearts. I'm not certain but I have watched the faces of some toughs and the moment they step off their motorbikes and stroll down to the water - stand there with their hands in their pockets looking out to sea - a transformation occurs - they become almost peaceful gentle giants. The spirit of the seventies is truly alive in Byron."

Victoria Thompson

Victoria Thompson first came to Byron Bay in the late sixties, playing a surfie chick in 'The Surfing Years.' She's been coming back ever since. She's the author of the best seller 'Losing Alexandria - a memoir.' (Picador) She writes about Byron Bay in this extract from her new novel 'The Sadness of Men.'

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